A quick update: Today marks the fourth day since Dec 10 that I have been alone in Strasbourg - it's been an amazing month full of lively visitors, lots of laughter and many adventures.
I just said goodbye to the incomparable, Dr. Stone after eight days of wonderful vacation both here and in Germany. 90% of people whom I told about my mother's visit expressed something like, "How wonderful! It's so great to have your mother cook for you again!" To set the record straight, I wish that I could tell you that it was great to experience my mom's cooking; however, let's be real - 'twas I that did all the everything in terms of food. Other than her lack of contributions to the dinner table and her thrice-hourly reminder that I have to get rid of my nose-piercing upon my return to the States, it was incredible to have my mother come and visit and understand my life here in France. The only downside: she reminded me of all that I miss back in California...
To start off this year, I've decided to introduce you all, bit by bit, to my home here in Strasbourg. This alphabetic method may seem elementary, and I hope it doesn't bore you; however, I think it'll be an interesting challenge to identify aspects of my life about which I want you to know and share them with you in this way. Enjoy!
A: Café Atlantico
On any given weekday from 4:30pm-7pm (Strasbourg time), you can likely find me here at Atlantico reading, working on emails, generally procrastinating, or actually attempting to write something. If the picture is unclear, the café is a boat that sits on the river Ill, which I love, except when the bateaux-mouches go past and I get a little seasick from the rocking. They make an awesome café crème, the most incredible cookies in the world, and have introduced me to my new favorite beer (Doigt de Dieu, from Brasserie Uberach, in case anyone was wondering).
B: Bibliothèque Nationale et Universitaire (BNU)
If I'm having a good morning, it means that I've gotten myself to the BNU to do some reading before lunchtime. Yeah, this palatial building is my library. Pretty awesome, right? Well, ok, actually this location is currently under construction, so I haven't been in for a while (don't worry! I read at the other locations). The BNU is located at the Place de la République, which is a beautiful roundabout near my house that also is the home to the national theater, the prefecture, and a park famous for its tulips in the springtime.
C: Choucroute
Often called the official dish of Strasbourg, choucroute garnie can be found in every Alsatian restaurant in this town. This photo, taken by my girl, Nora, is indicative of the choucroute traditionelle -- five types of meat of unknown provenance, a boiled potato and a veritable pile of sauerkraut, which is not called sauerkraut here because -- gasp! something German! I personally have never eaten choucroute; however, I have been assured that it is actually quite good and extremely hearty and comforting.
D: Dieudonné
Dieudonné does not particularly have to do with Strasbourg; however, I thought it would be more interesting for me to tell you about this current issue facing the community I am studying. I do not have a photo of Dieudonné, you can look him up - he is a comedian and quasi-political figure in France who invented/brought to light/made famous the "quenelle," a hand-gesture that he claims is anti-système. For French Jews, however, this has raised new fears of antisemitism in French society because of its resemblance to an inverted Nazi salute. Dieudonné is now in the middle of a heated debate about freedom of speech and censorship, as his French tour has been cancelled by the mayors of many towns, citing hate speech and mockery of the Holocaust. While I am, admittedly, on the outskirts of the Jewish community here in France, many organizations including the UEJF (Union des Etudiants Juifs de France), the CIBR (Consistoire Israelite de Bas-Rhin), and the UJLS (Union Juive Liberale de Strasbourg) and many of my friends here have sent me petitions to sign, emails to send on, and other forms of protest against the inflammatory language of Dieudonné. I think this controversy brings to light many themes that I'm working through and those which I studied at Stanford -- how does the memory of the past influence the present, and at what cost? At what point should or do Jews have to relinquish the status of "victim"? Should they ever? What are the political and historical implications we can derive from both sides of this argument? I encourage you all to read more about the current situation about Dieudonné, the quenelle and the valid responses of both sides. I would be more than happy to speak with you about my opinion as well, all you have to do is ask.
Happy Thursday, my loves!
xoxo, d
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